Exfoliation has become a skincare buzzword—and for good reason. When done correctly, it can leave your skin looking brighter, smoother, and healthier.
But overdoing it or using the wrong method can lead to irritation, sensitivity, and long-term damage.
Dermatologists regularly treat patients who misunderstand exfoliation. Here’s what they want you to know before you scrub, peel, or polish your skin:
1. Exfoliation isn’t about scrubbing hard
At its core, exfoliation is the process of removing dead skin cells from the surface of your skin. But that doesn’t mean you need to scrub aggressively or use gritty products.
“Exfoliation should never hurt,” says Dr. Mona Gohara, a board-certified dermatologist. “If your skin feels raw or overly tight after exfoliating, you’ve gone too far.”
Gentle is always better—especially for the delicate skin on your face.
2. Know the two types: Physical vs. Chemical
There are two primary forms of exfoliation, and knowing the difference is essential:
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Physical exfoliation uses tools or scrubs with small particles to manually slough off dead skin.
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Chemical exfoliation involves acids—like AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) or BHAs (beta hydroxy acids)—that dissolve dead cells gently and evenly.
While physical exfoliation can be effective, dermatologists often recommend chemical exfoliants because they’re generally less abrasive and offer more consistent results.
3. Frequency matters
One of the biggest mistakes people make is exfoliating too often. Doing so can disrupt your skin’s protective barrier, causing irritation, redness, and breakouts.
For most skin types, exfoliating 1 to 3 times a week is plenty.
“Daily exfoliation is rarely necessary,” says Dr. Shari Marchbein, a New York-based dermatologist. “It can actually do more harm than good.”
4. Match the method to your skin type
Not all exfoliants are created equal—and what works for one person may not work for another. Here’s a quick guide:
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Sensitive skin: Use lactic acid or enzyme-based exfoliants; avoid scrubs.
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Dry skin: Stick to hydrating AHAs like glycolic acid, and avoid anything too harsh.
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Oily or acne-prone skin: Salicylic acid (a BHA) can penetrate pores and reduce breakouts.
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Normal/combination skin: You can typically tolerate a broader range of exfoliants, but moderation is still key.
5. Don’t combine harsh ingredients
Mixing exfoliants with other strong actives like retinoids, vitamin C, or benzoyl peroxide can increase irritation. If you’re using these ingredients in your routine, space them out or consult with a dermatologist for guidance.
Also avoid exfoliating on days when your skin feels particularly dry, inflamed, or sunburned.
6. Sun protection is essential
After exfoliation, your skin is more sensitive to the sun. If you skip SPF, you’re increasing your risk of sun damage, hyperpigmentation, and premature aging.
Always wear a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher, especially if you use chemical exfoliants or retinol.
7. Less is more
It’s tempting to think that more exfoliation equals better results—but your skin doesn’t need to be overworked to look great. Start slow, listen to your skin, and avoid layering multiple exfoliating products at once.
“One well-formulated exfoliant used correctly is more effective—and safer—than using several at once,” Dr. Marchbein emphasizes.
Final thoughts
Exfoliation can truly enhance your skincare routine when done thoughtfully. Choose the right method for your skin type, don’t overdo it, and never forget sun protection.
Healthy skin isn’t about being aggressive—it’s about being consistent, gentle, and informed. When in doubt, a dermatologist can help you build the best exfoliating routine for your unique skin needs.
